Mary Ann Bullard, known to many as Ma Buzz, was facing one of those life-altering decisions. 

A diamond ring or a coffee shop?

To the delight of many caffeine addicts, Bullard told her boyfriend, Bob Buffington, that she'd rather go with joe.

And now, she and Buffington, two Hawaiian-shirt wearing, pet-friendly hippies, are married to Captain Buzzy's Beanery on Church Hill.

The beanery, famous for its fresh-roasted beans and Bullard's red velvet cake and pumpkin scones, is at 2623 E. Broad St. Just look for the car with the bumper sticker that reads "Friends don't let friends drink Starbucks."

"We're not normal," Buffington said.

They're among friends, though, in this eclectic neighborhood. The coffee shop is something fairly new in one of Richmond's oldest residential communities.

Residents refer to Church Hill as the center of the universe, sitting at the top of the city and overlooking downtown. The area was Richmond's first historic district, with ties to Patrick Henry. It's also a measure of revitalization and change in the city.

"You've got real diversity," Buffington said. "Up here, there's still an inner-city feeling. You can grab a cup of coffee and walk to the grocery store. The community is really tight."

Located in the city's East End, Church Hill includes most of the original 32 blocks of Richmond laid out by Maj. William Mayo in 1737, according to the city's Web site.

There's St. John's Church, where Henry gave his famous "Give me liberty, or give me death" speech. The church also is the namesake for Church Hill. Up the street is Chimborazo Park, site of the Civil War's largest military hospital.

And all over the hill, there are plenty of beautifully restored, historic homes -- a smattering of Greek Revival, some Federal and others Victorian.

The houses are as diverse as the neighbors.

"It's a real mix," said neighborhood veterinarian Dr. Nan Jack, who owns Church Hill Animal Hospital at 322 N. 25th St., which welcomes dogs and cats -- and, soon, gerbils, ferrets and other exotic friends. The hospital is adding a vet specializing in eccentric pets with eccentric owners.

"There's the little old lady who's lived here with her Chihuahuas," Jack said, and "retirees from up north who moved down and brought their three poodles."

. . .

Despite its rich history, Church Hill was for years known as having the largest concentration of poor, substandard housing in the city, as well as a high number of vacant buildings. A Times-Dispatch article in 1977 said the community had become riddled with "poverty, crime and aging, dilapidated homes."

But some residents challenge that reputation.

"It's always been a safe community," said DeNyce Bonaparte, who moved to Church Hill 30 years ago.

She and her late husband, Charles Napoleon Bonaparte Jr., bought one of the homes along the Mann-Netherwood block that had been purchased by the Historic Richmond Foundation. The foundation restored the outside, and homeowners fixed the inside, Bonaparte said.

"It was in the beginning stages of bringing back the historic homes," she said. "You could still get a really good house at a really good price. We lived and worked in the community. The kids caught the bus to school."

When Bonaparte moved in, her home didn't have a kitchen floor. The couple lived in one room of the house. In fact, her husband had to put up walls when their daughter was born, Bonaparte said.

The house now sparkles with its stone and brick front, four fireplaces and original pine floors. "I don't plan to go anywhere," Bonaparte said.

These days, the community provides more of a mix of old and new, black and white, wealthy and not.

"You've got people in sweats and people in $1,000 suits," said Bullard, the coffee queen.

. . .

While there are still some original sections of Church Hill, there are also $700,000 newly renovated homes and some really great restaurants.

Locals swear by The Hill Café, a neighborhood bar and restaurant at 2800 E. Broad St., and Acappella Restaurant and Pub at 2300 E. Broad St., which serves a mix of Italian and German fare. Down the hill, get a great brunch at Millie's, 2603 E. Main St. Need more coffee? There's Jumpin' J's Java and General Store at 2306 Jefferson Ave.

The community also has several pizza shops and a place called Bread for the People, where owner Mark Van Atter bakes bread in his home, then delivers it to customers in the winter and sells it at the 17th Street Farmers' Market in Shockoe Bottom in the warmer months. Some crowd favorites include onion and rosemary focaccia and garlic and Romano cheese baguettes.

Church Hill Herbs & Florist at 319 N. 25th St., across from the animal hospital, sells bulk lavender and essential oils. Two years ago, owner Carolyn Worssam expanded to include fresh flowers to provide another service in the community she has grown to love.

"This is a great neighborhood," Worssam said. "You're in the center of the universe."

She said the best thing about the area is that residents are less than 30 minutes from Short Pump but don't have to leave the hill if they don't want to.

At the bottom of the hill is one of resident Jessica Jordan's favorite places: Poe's Pub at 2706 E. Main St.

"You can walk down, drink three beers and walk home," said Jordan, who has lived on Church Hill for 29 years.

The community is also big on parties.

There's High on the Hog, a big pig roast in Libby Hill Park hosted by none other than Larry Ham. There's also the "nonhouse tour," where residents get together and tour each other's backyards. The event usually kicks off with some Bloody Marys and quiche.

Jordan, a mother of three and participant in the nonhouse tour, said she likes Church Hill's friendly atmosphere. She's married to David Cooley, a contractor who makes his living saving houses that others would tear down.

She said the couple have never considered moving to the suburbs to raise their three children -- she likes the way Church Hill has introduced her kids to a little bit of everything.

"In Church Hill, you have families but you also have artists living over here, single people. It's not a retirement community. We are not all old. It's very eclectic," she said. "What hooks us all together is our love of old houses."